A journey of discovery by a group of American writers to an emerging Central European nation.

While travelling the road to Elbasan, Keeley and his companions seek to learn about the terrible fifty years of physical and spiritual drought brought on by the Stalinist regime of Enver Hoxha and to see the first steps Albania has taken toward a more democratic government. Along the way, Keeley records in sometimes lyrical and humorous detail their meetings with people rejoicing in their new-found freedoms.